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15 Tips to Plans For Building A Stereo Cabinet | Make Cabinets the Easy Way
- Apply glue to the case edges; then center the frame between the case sides with the lower frame rail inside edge 1⁄ 8 " above the inside face of the case bottom. Check that the top stile ends sit flush with the top ends of the case sides. Clamp the frame in place, including the middle rail to the drawer stretcher [below]. If you’ll paint the cabinet, save clamping time by gluing and nailing the frame to the case. Then fill the holes. - Source: Internet
- ⁄ " plywood case eliminates panel jointing, planing, and glue-ups. Face frames cover plywood edges. Overlaps on the sides let you fine-tune the cabinet width during installation. - Source: Internet
- Big? Yes. Difficult? Nah. With only basic woodworking skills, a tablesaw, and a few simple tools, you can make custom cabinets for your home or shop. - Source: Internet
- The cabinet cases shown here were made from birch-veneer, medium-density fiberboard (MDF)-core plywood for economy. You can instead use hardwood-veneer plywood, solid MDF, plain or melamine-covered particleboard, and solid wood. Double-check the material thickness before calculating cabinet sizes and cutting dadoes and rabbets. - Source: Internet
- Okay, let’s hear ’em—your excuses for not making those cabinets you could use everywhere from your kitchen to your workshop: “Oooh, they have doors.” Relax. You can make doors using just your tablesaw and a general-purpose blade to cut the joints. - Source: Internet
- Assemble a frame-and-panel drawer front as you would a small version of a cabinet door. Then mount the glides [below] on the case and on the lower edge of the drawer box side according to the product instructions. The plastic mounting bracket lets you adjust these slides up and down and side-to-side for smooth-opening drawers. Make the front of the drawer box flush with the frame. - Source: Internet
- To hold the upper cabinet in place while you screw it to the wall, make two 18"-tall temporary supports from scrap. Place them on 1⁄ 2 " spacers, and rest the upper cabinet on the supports [below]. After you screw the cabinet in place, slide out the 1⁄ 2 " spacers to allow enough room for the temporary supports to tilt out from under the cabinet. - Source: Internet
- Using the plywood thickness to set the stacked dado width, cut a 3⁄ 8 “-deep dado on the inside face of each side piece to accept the bottom. You can use the same setup to cut 3⁄ 8 “-deep rabbets along the inside back edge of the sides to accept the cabinet back. Then notch the bottom front corner of both side pieces for the toe kick [below]. A toe kick allows you to stand closer to a cabinet without bumping the front with your feet. - Source: Internet
- Start by ripping two side pieces to the cabinet depth (minus the frame thickness); then cut them to length. Label them left and right with pencil marks on the inside faces. Now subtract the thickness of the back from your fence setting, and cut the bottom panel to width. Then cut the bottom to length. - Source: Internet
- Clamp the cabinet face frames together while you screw them to the wall and each other, ensuring the faces are flush. To compensate for the frame overlap, add a 1⁄ 4 " spacer between the cases toward their backs and between the clamps [first photo below]. Then drill pilot holes and screw the frames together [second photo below] and the cabinets where you inserted the 1⁄ 4 " spacers. - Source: Internet
- Measure and center the back drawer stretcher flush with the bottom of the front drawer stretcher. Check for square, as with the upper cabinet [below]. After the glue dries, cut the back to fit. Then glue and nail it in place. - Source: Internet
- A dead-square cabinet requires a dead-flat assembly surface to avoid twisting the glue-up. First lay a side panel on your work surface with its dadoed face up. Apply glue to the dado and insert the bottom. Then glue the dado on the other side panel dado and mount it on the bottom. Support the other end of the side panel with top stretchers that you’ll pocket-hole-screw in place. - Source: Internet
- Cut the cabinet bottom to that length. For example, to make a cabinet 333⁄ 4 " wide using 3⁄ 4 " plywood, cut the case bottom 33” long. To size the stretchers, use that same number minus the 3⁄ 4 " dado allowance. Calculate upper cabinet sizes the same way. - Source: Internet
- Remove the doors, drawers, and all hardware, and apply a finish. Move the cases into position where they’ll be installed. Shim the bottom edges to level the cabinets and make the face frame edges parallel with each other. - Source: Internet
- Position the middle rail so its top edge is flush with the upper face of the middle stretcher. Cut the upper and lower vertical dividers to fit between the middle rail and the top and bottom rails. Using two pocket-hole screws at each joint, assemble the frame [below]. The screws won’t show after you glue the frame to the cabinet. - Source: Internet
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